This article is actually about the book “Into Wine” by Olivier Magny and how it pertains to the Napa Valley. Olivier is an outspoken Parisian sommelier and wine educator. I found the book to be a fun read, with little wine jargon and a lot of practical advice for both the wine beginner and the wine aficionado. The big pitch in “Into Wine” is terroir. Olivier Magny suggests rather strongly that we seek out wines that exhibit the character of the place.

With passion he talks about how terroir gives meaning and life to a bottle of wine. Its uniqueness is the result of the soil, climate, the vineyard grower and the winemaker. It is about the caring of the soil and the vines that imbue a special quality to the wine. It is about the winemaker who cares enough to let the soil and climate shine through in his or her winemaking and cellar techniques. Mostly, terroir wines are ones where sustainable farming is the creed. That means dry farming and no use of chemical pesticides or herbicides. This is a growing trend throughout the wine world, and I know that many Napa Valley wineries are in this category and others are making an effort to go in this direction.

Olivier Magny

I have made a list of the Napa Valley wineries that practice some type of organic farming. The list continues to grow and ranges from wineries that do some organic farming to ones that are certified biodynamic. There is also the program established by the Napa Valley Vintners Association that grants “Napa Green Certified Land” and “Napa Green Certified Winery” to wineries that meet the qualifying standards. See Napa Green. There are some 400 wineries in the Napa Valley so you can see that there is a long road ahead.

We visit the Napa Valley often and we have noticed in recent years signs of change. We see more cover crops in winter and spring, grazing animals, organic vegetable gardens and more dry farming. We see many, many wineries with solar panels. Although solar panels have no effect on the grapes, they are an important aspect in the sustainability of a winery.

We also observe that the whole idea of organics and sustainability carries through to the tasting room. In general, the focus is different with less of a sales push and more towards a human aspect. It’s more about how their wines are good because they have been attentive to the soil. They care that we are getting a bottle of wine that shows the character of their vineyards. I love finding wineries like these. They are so much more enjoyable than listening to a long spiel about each wine and asking me if I can detect a bit of anise character in the nose.

As for Olivier Magny, he pitches “buy only the wines that are made with terroir in mind.” He states that there are many excellent wines under $20 in this category. That is one area where it is hard to find Napa Valley wines in this price range, especially in the red wines. Nonetheless, if you heed the Magny code, choose your Napa Valley wines wisely and support the wineries that are environmentally friendly. It is the right thing to do.

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One important reason why there are so few Charbono vineyards is that the grape likes the same climate as Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet is the big cash crop in the Napa Valley. The former manager at Inglenook, Larry Stone, told us that the vineyards in front of the Inglenook Chateau were all Charbono until they were torn out by Francis Ford Coppola and replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Inglenook 1968 & Duxoup 2010 Charbono

Charbono Growers and Wineries

Among the Napa Valley growers, Frediani Vineyards has 11.5 acres of Charbono. Many of those acres were planted in 1935. Jim Frediani sells these grapes to wineries that include Duxoup Winery, T Vine, August Briggs and Vermeil.

Summers Estates in Calistoga has 10 acres of the grape and they use all to produce 1400 cases per year plus 100 cases of Charbono Rosé. When Jack and Beth Summers purchased the property in 1996, the Charbono vineyards were thriving, and they felt it was important to continue growing the historic vines. Little did they know at the time how great a decision that would be for the winery. Summers Estates is now the largest producer of Charbono.

The Tofanelli Family has 4.76 acres planted in 1987 and, while they once sold much of the Charbono to other wineries including Turley, Vince Tofanelli now uses all these vineyards for his own label.

Vince Tofanelli shows off his Charono.

The Heitz Vineyard in Calistoga has 7.5 acres of Charbono. The Heitz Family has its own Shypoke Charbono and sells grapes to Robert Foley Vineyards as well as others. Gary Heitz at Shypoke says he feels a resurgence in Charbono and a growing appreciation of the wine.

Beaulieu Winery has 6.5 acres but does not make a Charbono wine. They use the grape solely for blending. The vineyard is located on Larkmead Lane in Calistoga.

Charbono Wine

I have tried the Tofanelli, Summers, and the Duxoup Charbono wines and a couple of old vintages of Inglenook Charbono, the 1968 and 1969. The current vintages have a deep purple color, almost Petite Sirah like. The aroma is blueberry and blackberry and perhaps even a bit of mustiness. Don’t let the deep color fool your taste buds. This wine is medium bodied with beautiful fruit flavors and great acidity. It is an easy-drinking wine and, because of the acidity, a good match with many food dishes. Those wine drinkers who like a heavy-duty Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon will find Charbono to be a much more restrained wine. This wine usually comes in at under 14% alcohol, with tannins on the lighter side.

Summers Estate Charbono

At one point Charbono was thought to be an Italian grape, but it has been confirmed by U.C. Davis that the Charbono grape is the same DNA as the French Corbeau grape grown in the Savoie wine region of eastern France. In Argentina’s Mendoza wine region, this same grape is widely grown and is called Bonarda. Argentine Bonarda is slowly but surely making its way into the U.S. I have tried several Bonarda wines, mostly in the $12 range. A few have been quite good, but none nearly as polished or balanced as the California Charbono. The California Charbono wines range in price from $20 to $50 a bottle.

Those traveling to the Napa Valley who would like to taste Charbono can visit the Summers Estates winery in Calistoga on Tubbs Lane. Tofanelli Charbono can be tasted at the Upper Vintners Tasting Room in Calistoga on Lincoln. August Briggs has a tasting room on the Silverado Trail near Calistoga. Robert Foley takes visitors by appointment.

Famed winemaker Robert Foley has a very informative YouTube Video on his Charbono wine that we recommend watching.

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Five Fun Things to Do in the Napa Valley in May

Play a round of Bocce Ball
May is “Bocce Ball in Wine Country” Month. The game is easy to play and people of all ages can have an enjoyable game of Bocce. You don’t need to be a fabulous athlete to play this game. Here is a list of the wineries in the Napa Valley that have one or more Bocce courts. Pack a lunch and play Bocce at a winery in May. Simple rules of Bocce

Bocce is fun!

Oxbow Market Public Market
The Oxbow market in downtown Napa is in full swing these days, bustling with locals and tourists as they shop and dine in this wonderful enclave of artisans and purveyors. For lunch or a snack, there are many choices including: Hog Island Oyster, Ca’ Momi, Pica Pica Maize Kitchen and our favorite, C Casa. We love shopping for spices at the Whole Spice Company.

Hog Island at Oxbow

Wine Education
There are many ways to get a wine education in the Napa Valley. We like going to wineries that have an educational theme. Try the St. Supery winery, located on Highway 29 in between the towns of Oakville and Rutherford. The winery offers some exhibits and views of the winemaking process, as well as walks in the vineyards. You can also reserve a spot in one of their classes entitled “Vineyard to Glass” at St. Supéry. Check the St. Supery Website and call to reserve your spot.

Visit a 100-year-old winery
One way to get a perspective of the Napa Valley is to visit one of the several 100-year-old wineries. Here is a list of the wineries in the Napa Valley that are over 100 years old. Our favorite is the Inglenook Winery in Rutherford. Francis Ford Coppola has gone to great expense to bring the Chateau back to its former glory. The tour is wonderful here.

Inglenook Winery

Wine Taste around Calistoga
At the north end of the Napa Valley, you will find the “road less traveled.” From our Calistoga Wine Trail, choose at least a couple of wineries to visit. At Summers Estate you can picnic and have a taste of Charbono, a wonderful red wine grape. Calistoga Wine Trail.

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View bud break
Bud break is happening at this very moment in the Napa Valley and all of wine country. Vineyard managers and winemakers rejoice as another year of the grape begins. Bud break ranks just below harvest in importance in a vineyard year. The rows of vineyards look wonderful with the tiny bud leaves poking out towards the sky. It is a serene and lovely moment in wine country.

Bud Break in the Napa Valley

Combine art and wine
Robert Mondavi Winery recently introduced “Foodies in Exile,” a new art exhibit on display in the Vineyard Room at the winery. It is a collection of fifty pieces from artist Bryce Vinokurov. The “Foodies in Exile” exhibit aims to capture the local and national sustainable food movement through a series of large and small oil paintings, collages, linocuts and intaglio etchings. The exhibit will last through May 9th and the hours are 10 am to 4 pm for the viewing public. Robert Mondavi Winery is located in Oakville on Highway 29.

At Mumm Napa winery in Rutherford there is a wonderful exhibit by photographer Jeffrey A. Davis. The exhibit is “Serenity, Wonder, and Spirit.” Photographer Davis in this exhibit captures memorable moments from wilderness regions, sacred sites and diverse cultures all over the world. Visitor center and fine art photography gallery hours are 10:00 am to 5:00 pm daily. Mumm Napa is located at 8445 Silverado Trail, Rutherford, CA 94573.

Art Gallery at Mumm Napa

Enjoy a picnic lunch among the vineyards
April is one of the prettiest months for a picnic in wine country. The climate is ideal and the vines are in a lovely state of growth. Pick up your picnic lunch on the way at one of these delightful delis in the Napa Valley and choose one of these Napa Valley wineries for a picnic in wine country.

Get a mud bath
In Calistoga, the mud bath is king among the spa treatments. At good old Dr. Wilkinson’s, they are celebrating 60 years of mud bath treatments. Dr. Wilkinson designed a recipe of Calistoga’s volcanic ash and mineral hot springs water to cleanse the skin and relax the body. It is the most popular mud bath in Calistoga.

Visit five fun Napa Valley wineries
Of course the main reason for traveling to the Napa Valley is wine tasting and touring. In this video see why these five wineries are fun and exciting and offer the tourist a special experience. Choose one or more for a great time in the Napa Valley.

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On Monday evening, March 18, we attended a meeting of the Commonwealth Club in San Francisco at which Jancis Robinson and Linda Murphy discussed their book and answered questions from the audience.

American Wine at the Commonwealth Club in San Francisco

Jancis Robinson has been listed as the most powerful woman in wine and is a wine writer and wine critic based in London. Linda Murphy is the former editor of the San Francisco Chronicle Wine section and writes about wine from her home in the heart of wine country in Sonoma County. Leslie Sbracco, wine writer and television host of “Check, Please,” moderated this lively and informative event.

Most of the discussion came from questions posed by the audience. I’ve paraphrased the most important and relevant topics mentioned by the two speakers.

From Jancis Robinson

• California is the only wine region where big wines are popular. Fresher and lighter is the norm in the rest of the world, including Australia. There is a worldwide shift to fresher and lighter.
• Global warming is most evident in the Australian wine industry with lack of water and heat waves. Global warming is showing up in many other geographic areas in various forms.
• The older the vines, the more interesting the wines. In areas of France they are ripping out vines. In California there are many vineyards that are over 100 years old.
• When asked what wines in other states surprised Jancis, she responded that she liked the sparkling wine made by the New Mexico winery Gruet. She thought the wine to be very similar to French Champagne.

From Linda Murphy

• The three-tier system in the United States makes it harder for small wineries to compete. It is difficult to change because of the lobbyists, they are very influential.
• Sustainable farming is the right thing to do. It is getting to the point that wineries stick out if they are not sustainable. We see fewer pesticides and more cover crops these days.
• Wine making is improving throughout America. Take New Jersey. There are 50 wineries there and ten are very good. The others are trying hard to improve.
• Wherever there is good wine made, good food follows.
• Texas is producing many great wines in the high plains areas. Tempranillo is just one example.
• When asked where she found a surprise wine: Near Traverse City, New Jersey, there is a long peninsula that stretches up to the north. The Riesling wines there are fantastic.

The Commonwealth Club will post a podcast of this event within a few days. Check for it
at www.commonwealthclub.org. Click on the menu item “Multimedia.”

The book “American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United States” is $50 and is available at Amazon for a significant discount.

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Napa Valley Wine Train

Every now and then a WCG reader will shoot us an email asking us for advice on taking a ride on the Napa Valley Wine Train that runs through the Valley. I’m sorry to reply to these emails that I have never been on the Wine Train and therefore cannot make a recommendation. I have had friends who have taken the wine train, and for the most part we have heard a mixed bag of reviews. Some think it is an awesome time, while others thought the money would have been better spent on visiting wineries or buying wine.

As far as I can see, the Napa Valley Wine Train is more like a restaurant than anything else. It is really not a wine tour. Sure, the scenery is very pretty along the route from Napa to St. Helena, but the problem is that you cannot get off and on along the way and spend some time at any wineries. When the wine train got the okay in 1989 to take passengers along the Valley, plenty of restrictions were placed on what the wine train could do and not do. Letting passengers on and off at wineries was a big “no.”

I can think of a few reasons why folks might want to take the Napa Valley Wine Train.

• They love riding trains
• What better way to enjoy the scenery of the Napa Valley by having fine wine and food without any traffic worries
• It is a good introduction to the Napa Valley
• It is a fun and relaxing time
• It’s a party

Costco Wine Train Package

There are other options for visiting the Napa Valley other than riding the wine train. There are private limos that can be hired. Platypus is a company that picks up tourists at their hotels and drives them to a set of wineries with a picnic lunch included. You can certainly drive on your own, but make sure you have a designated driver. For good reason, the authorities heavily patrol the Valley.

The wine train is certainly not my cup of tea. When I travel to the Napa Valley, a big part of what I like to do is get out my car and explore the vineyards and compose photographs. I like searching the crossroads finding beautiful vineyard scenes and, oh yes, stopping in at any winery that looks interesting. If I’m driving while visiting, I make sure I bring in my wine spit cup so I can taste but not swallow the wine. I do like the wine train in one respect. I like watching the wine train as it goes by; the cars are old and look very pretty against the vineyards and the mountains.

In case you are planning a trip to the Napa Valley, here is a little video to help you plan a wonderful trip to the wine country: Napa Valley Travel Tips.

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Calistoga Winter in the Wineries Passport Program
Visitors to the rustic Calistoga area can purchase a passport ticket for a $50 fee and can enjoy wine tasting at fifteen different wineries in and around Calistoga. The Passport also provides discounts at various lodging properties including the Mount View Hotel & Spa, Eurospa & Inn, Christoper’s Inn, Carlin Country Cottages and more. The Passport Winter lasts now through February 10, 2013. See what wineries we like in Calistoga. More Passport information

Chateau Montelena – one of Napa Valley’s oldest wineries

Robert Mondavi Art Exhibit
On January 11, the Robert Mondavi Winery will open a new art exhibit: The “Ancient Textures and Sacred Landscapes.” The exhibit will take place in the Vineyard Room and feature pieces from local Napa Valley artist and photographer Teri Sandison. The exhibit will be open for public viewing during winery hours through March 6, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Taste some vino and view the exhibit, what a treat! For more information about the exhibit, please contact Karen O’Neill at 707-968-2040 or karen.oneill@cbrands.com.

January is Restaurant Month in the Napa Valley
The Napa Valley celebrates its internationally renowned food and wine during Restaurant Month in January 2013. Look for special offers at various restaurants throughout the Napa Valley. Take a look at the “Visit Napa Valley” Website for special restaurant offers.

Mustard Season
Thirty days after the first big rainstorm of the year, wild mustard will grow, making for one of the more fantastic sites in wine country. We had that big rainfall early this year so in late December and throughout January, mustard should be abundant. Whether it be sunny or cloudy, the shades of the mustard plant will delight as they line the vineyard rows of the Napa Valley. Bring your camera and be ready to share you photos at this lovely time of the year. Send us a good photo and maybe it will make our “Wine Country Photo of the Day.”

Mustard in vineyard in St. Helena

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In center Whitehall Lane G.M. Mike McLoughlin Class of 1979

My friend Bob (a fellow alum and retired S.I. teacher and coach) and I paid a visit to Whitehall Lane Winery in St. Helena, owned by S.I. alum Tom Leonardini. We discussed the guys we each knew from S.I. who owned wineries and that prompted us to get a complete list from the Alumni Department at St. Ignatius High School. The list below shows the name of the winery, the individual, their graduation year, and their affiliation with the winery.

St. Ignatius High School grads making wine

• Provenance Winery: Tom Rinaldi ’67 – Director of winemaking
• Whitehall Lane: Tom Leonardini ’59 – Owner
• Whitehall Lane: Mike McLoughlin ’79 – General Manager
• Bohemian Vineyards: Tom Cleary ’79 – Owner
• Highway 12: Paul Giusto ’90 – Co-Founder
• Orsi Papale: Lawrence Papale ‘68 – Co-owner &
  Winemaker
• Orsi Papale: Berni Orsi ’68 – Co-owner
• Mariah Vineyards: Dan Dooling ’69 -owner
• Paradigm: Ren Harris ’59 – Owner
• Cecchetti Wine Company: Roy Cecchetti ’75 – Owner
• Fritz Family Wines: Jay Fritz ’58 & Clay Fritz ’90 – Owners
• Lynmar Estate: Lynn Fritz ’60 – Owner
• Taft Street: Mike Tierney ’63 – Owner
• Round Pond: Miles MacDonald ’93 – Owner
• Oakwild Ranch Toboni Vineyards: Joe Toboni ’70 – Owner
• Mahoney Vineyards: Francis Mahoney ’63 – Owner
• Cleary Ranch Vineyards: John Cleary ’75 – Owner
• Orsianni: Fred Tocchini ’66 – Owner

I have no explanation as to why so many from this San Francisco prep school are connected to the wine industry. Is it a coincidence or some demographic that is common to students who attend St. Ignatius High School?

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This was our first visit since the winery did a remodel and an addition a couple of years ago. Although the building structure has changed, the personnel remains very much the same, anchored by winemaker Dean Sylvester now in his eighteenth year at Whitehall. Our tour leader was Mike McLoughlin, the General Manger who joined the winery shortly after the Leonardini Family purchased the winery. Consistency is good in this case; the Whitehall Lane wines have been highly regarded throughout its history, highlighted many times by the Wine Spectator for its reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dean Sylvester is his lab checks the Sauvignon Blanc blend

For tourists to the Napa Valley, the winery is easy to spot as you drive north on Highway 29 heading to St. Helena. The vineyards here stretch across to the Mayacamus Mountains to the west, providing one of the most glorious Napa Valley sights no matter what the season of the year or the weather of the day is. The architecture and color scheme of the winery blend perfectly into the vineyards and mountains. This inviting atmosphere draws many tourists to the tasting room. The photo below was shot in January of 2011 from the Whitehall Lane parking lot.

The vineyards adjacent to Whitehall Lane.

We like the Sauvignon Blanc and it is perhaps the most underrated wine in the Whitehall Lane lineup. The key to this wine is the small amount of Semillon grape that Dean Sylvester puts into this wine. I think the Semillon gives an added character to the S.B. The acidity is quite nice but not overbearing as in some Sauvignon Blancs. The wine is quite gentle with subtle citrus flavors. The wine sells for $18 at the winery. I can occasionally find this Sauvignon Blanc at my local Costco for about $11. It is usually in stock at Costco when the winery needs to make room for the next vintage. What a steal!

Two other wines we like are the Merlot and the Napa Valley Cabernet, both solid efforts and well balanced. These are terrific food wines because they do not overpower the palate. They just taste darn good with chicken and a variety of red meat dishes.

The tasting room is open daily and the tasting fee is $15 per person for a taste of four wines. Tip: Before you visit, do a Google search for “Whitehall Lane two-for-one tasting coupon.” I am almost certain you’ll find a coupon to print out for your visit to Whitehall Lane. We also suggest that for lunch you try Cindy Pawlcyn’s new restaurant in St. Helena. It is called the Wood Grill and Wine Bar and the food and atmosphere are very pleasant. You might even spot a few winemakers there enjoying lunch or dinner and having a friendly chat about their wines.

Enjoying the wines of Whitehall Lane

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Here are some great ideas to make your Black Friday Carneros trip a success:

Pack a lunch
Get some hard French rolls and make some delicious sandwiches with your left-over turkey. As long there is no rain or wind, a picnic among the vines is wonderful. For picnic spots in Carneros we like Larson Family Winery, Cline, or Robledo Winery.

Bring the kids
The kids are not in school so bring them along. The Larson Family Winery boasts that it is the most kid-friendly winery . Bring plenty of games and other activities to keep them happy.

Play some Bocce
Here again the Larson Family Winery has a Bocce court and it is a very easy game to play. Check out these simple rules for a competitive game of Bocce.

Shop the tasting room
If you must shop, look for the tasting rooms with plenty of wine-related merchandise to sell. Check out Jacuzzi Winery for olive oil and Viansa for lots of merchandise.

Taste some bubbly
In the Carneros wine region there are two wineries that produce wonderful sparkling wine. Both offer a variety of tastings and tours. The settings at both Gloria Ferrer and Domaine Carneros are spectacular.

Domain Carneros for sparkling wine

Take the backroads
There are several backroads in Carneros where you’ll find beautiful vineyard views of Fall colors. Take Ramel Road off Highway 121. It is a right turn and this road ends up at Duhig Road, which also meets up at Los Amigos Road. These backroads offer some of the best scenery of any wine country region in the world.

The backroads of Carneros – Ramel Road

To find all these wineries and backroads, visit our Winery Finder and Trip Planner. Print your map and set out for a very enjoyable day of wine country activities.

Use the Winery Finder/Trip Planner

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